|
|
by Michael Venezia
Cobb Life, July 2, 2010
 |
Michael Venezia
photo courtesy of Erin Gray | It was daring.
It was difficult.
It was controversial.
It was a challenge.
When asked how I could do such a thing?
I replied, "For love."
For the love of wine and chocolate! It was that simple. What did I do? Well here it is in summary: On a Friday af-ternoon in late Spring in less than one hour I enjoyed seven desserts made by Chef Brigid Jones of Ritter's and Paper Mill Grill in East Cobb, all using the finest chocolate as the main component, paired with a selection of wine.
Impossible you say.
I don't think so.
I find the sensory impression that chocolate has on my palate extremely sensual. The texture, concentration and length of flavor of the finest chocolate is extremely memorable, like a very fine wine. There are some who find paring the two an impossible task. Please accept that gastronomic nirvana can be achieved by following some simple guidelines. Not all chocolates are created equal and many wines conflict with the sometimes powerful complexity of extraordinary chocolate. However, if you are adventurous, select the proper chocolate and be adventurous enough to succumb to the sirens call, wine and chocolate can complement each other very well.
Be aware of the popular commercial chocolate brands as they have relatively small amounts of cacao, the key in-gredient in the world's finest chocolates. Select those which have at least 60 percent cacao and you will have achieved the first goal of cacao intensity. Many of these dark or bittersweet chocolates are perfect with several wine varietals. Although M&M's, Hershey's Milk Chocolate Kisses and Cadbury Flake Bars are able to satisfy, they are not so delicious with a bottle of zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir. These commercial chocolate products contain lots of sugar and milk solids that actually conflict with the tannins that are often found in fine red wines. White wine has less tannin and can be enjoyed if they are mildly sweet. My favorites include medium dry Riesling and moscato.
Embracing my mission with hedonistic enthusiasm, my goal was to see if my wine selections stood up to chef's magical creations. Of course both the wine and chocolate contain high levels of antioxidants and flavonoids. I knew I was not endangering my cardiovascular health. In addition I limited myself to 2 small tastes of each dessert so I would not expand my waistline.
So whether you are enjoying a delicious white chocolate mouse or a dense dark chocolate pate, there are wines that are magnificent. Fear not, pleasure awaits you.
Rules of Engagement
Light subtle wines with delicate sweetness complement white chocolate. Try moscato or Riesling. Fortified wines such as port or Madeira go very well with mild chocolate desserts, especially if dried fruits or nuts are included.
Deep, dark, full flavored red wines pair very well with intense bittersweet high cacao content desserts. My favor-ites include zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz or petite sirah.
Unless you are able to duplicate these desserts at home or your personal chef is away on vacation, drop over to Ritter's or Paper Mill Grill and enjoy one or more of these desserts with your favorite wine.
The Challenge Met
"The Chocolate" – A flourless chocolate cake, layer of mousse submerged in dark chocolate ganache.
Napa Cellars Zinfandel, Napa Valley, 2007
"Chocolate Pizza" – Short bread with apricot jam, cranberries, and macadamia nuts with white and dark choco-late.
Oberon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2007
"Dark Chocolate Pave with a Pistachio Center" – Dark chocolate butter and heavy cream blended with a dash of apricot brandy stuffed with crushed pistachio.
Adobe Road, Petite Sirah, Russian River Valley, 2006
"Lace Doily filled with White Chocolate Saboyon with fresh Fruit Garnish" – Brown sugar, Karo syrup doily lace cookie filled with white chocolate cream.
Snoqualmie, Riesling, Columbia Valley, 2008
"White Chocolate Mousse with White, Dark and Milk Chocolate Dipped Strawberries" – Quinta do Portal 10 year old Tawny Port.
"Brownie Bottom White Chocolate Cheesecake" – Dense, dark chocolate brownie with white chocolate cheese-cake.
Terra d'Oro, Moscato, California, 2008
"Chocolate Caramel and Oreo Crust Tart" – Oreo cookie crust with homemade caramel sauce dipped in ganache.
C. Donatiello, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2006
Michael Venezia teaches the School of Hospitality's beverage management class, which is one of the most popular among hospitality students.
|
|
